The Family Who Saved the Verdejo Grape: Eduardo From the Martinsancho Vineyards
Eduardo Prieto, a dedicated viticulturist in the making, shares his journey, insights, and aspirations within the wine industry. Slowly taking over the operations at Martinsancho Vineyards, he represents the new generation of winemakers in Spain. We're engaged in a conversation that unfolds the layers of tradition, innovation, and personal devotion to the craft of winemaking.
Eduardo's Roots in Winemaking
Eduardo's connection to winemaking is as deep and complex as the wine his family has been producing for generations at Martinsancho Vineyards. Born into a lineage of viticulturists, he naturally gravitated towards the field despite initially pursuing a degree in pharmacy. The call of the vine was irresistible, leading him back to the soil his ancestors had tended for centuries.
"I've lived in the wine world since I was a kid. When we were having lunch or dinner, the whole conversation was about the winery or the vineyards. It was always the same topic for conversation."
His current pursuit of a master's degree in enology and viticulture in France is a testament to his commitment to advancing his family's legacy while refining the quality of their wine. Although his grandfather has been teaching him to prune since the age of 12, the formal education exposes him to the science and the why behind the practices they already do.
Saving a Nearly Lost Grape
Martinsancho Vineyards, growing exclusively the Verdejo variety, is a beacon of tradition and resilience. Eduardo recounts the history of their vineyards, some of which were planted in the mid-19th century, predating the phylloxera epidemic that devastated European vineyards.
In the seventies, his grandfather Ángel was pivotal in preserving the indigenous Verdejo grape variety. While everyone in Rueda was uprooting the vineyards and planting other, more lucrative crops, Angel insisted on protecting the winemaking tradition and the Verdejo grape.
With winemaking deeply ingrained in their family history already (they were making barrels at the time, too), Angel persisted in cultivating grapes and distributing cuttings from their vineyard to nurseries. Later, his contribution to agriculture and preserving a nearly lost grape variety earned him prestigious recognition from King Juan Carlos. Now, 70 years later, Verdejo is Spain's most-sold white wine.
“I think it's a good example of resilience through the good and the bad times. It was a variety that was almost extinct, nobody wanted to use it.”
Sustainability Isn't a New Trend
For Eduardo's grandfather, the vineyard was of paramount importance. Eduardo shares his passion for working in the vineyards and believes, as his grandfather did, in the crucial role of high-quality raw materials.
"It's very difficult to make a good wine with bad grapes."
Their family is willing to sacrifice some quantity to ensure they harvest excellent grapes. Spacing plants three meters apart reduces vine density but allows for better air circulation, essential for disease prevention during the hot summers. It also reduces reliance on sulfur by fostering conditions less conducive to disease. They use organic manure and avoid synthetic pesticides, promoting biodiversity in the vineyard.
"The arrival of synthetic products changed many things, but we've maintained traditional methods because they work. For managing vineyard diseases, we've always used only sulfur powder."
Another longstanding practice is maintaining a cover crop from September to March. This practice is essential for water conservation in this dry region, where rainfall is scarce. Though they haven't observed water stress in their vines, the cover crops are removed in Spring to prevent water competition during the drier months. The flat vineyard terrain negates the need for erosion prevention measures that might necessitate covering the ground year-round.
His grandfather emphasized that the small tasks performed throughout the year significantly impact the quality of the wine. He was particularly strict about pruning techniques to ensure the vineyard's longevity by preventing diseases and premature plant death. This meticulous attention to detail has preserved the vines his grandfather planted.
Facing the Future
As Eduardo looks ahead, he acknowledges the challenges and opportunities that lie in transitioning to a leadership role within Martinsancho Vineyards. His experiences at home and internationally have equipped him with a broad perspective on winemaking. Yet, he humbly recognizes the learning curve ahead.
“I'm not very fond of the commercial side, especially social media. I engage with it because it's necessary nowadays, but I find it quite difficult since it doesn't come naturally to me. It feels like a significant effort to consistently create posts and manage these platforms."
Eduardo's harvesting experiences abroad, particularly in Champagne, have inspired him to consider introducing sparkling wine production, signaling a future where tradition meets innovation under his watch. However, he notes that we shouldn't get too excited just yet. He still has to finish his degree and settle into the current order of things.
Eduardo hopes to participate in one more harvest in France, aiming for Burgundy next season. Afterward, he plans to return home, work closely with his parents, and fully immerse himself in the family vineyard operations.
The Essence of Martinsancho Vineyards
At the heart of Martinsancho Vineyards is the story of a family deeply rooted in the land they cultivate, producing wine that reflects their heritage, passion, and the unique terroir of their region. Eduardo respects the tradition and promises that the legacy of his ancestors will flourish in the bottles of Verdejo wine that bear their family's mark.
As Eduardo prepares to return home and take his place in the family winery, he carries with him the knowledge and experience gained from his studies and the wisdom of generations before him who have shaped the Rueda region's wine landscape.
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